Checkpoints

These are the points where people wait to have their ID inspected. They can range from a block at the side of the road an a couple of incredibly bored, fly-swatting soldiers slumped upon enormous guns, to full-on wire-fenced turnstiles which look a lot like cattle gates leading to an abbatoir. Palestinians are issued with either blue or green identification cards- blue meaning Jerusalem resident (a minority who were fenced in to the Israeli side of the Wall), and green meaning West Bank resident, ie no access to Jerusalem. As the town I am staying in is only around 2km from Jerusalem, for most of the people I meet it has been several years since their last visit to their beloved capital and it's services, as well as their family members 'trapped' on the other side of the wall. Several people have told me that, for those who have the money to travel, it is actully easier to reach London than it is Jerusalem.

Shortly before I arrived to the town, a woman gave birth in a toilet at one of its checkpoints after soliders refused to allow her to pass through.

My first experience of the checkpoints was during a visit on Monday to the northern town of Jenin where I visited some hard-working women's organisations with a group from AD. On the way back we passed around seven checkpoints. Not much problem getting through on the way there; however on the way back, presumably because the road we were on was Jerusalem-bound, we found ourselves queuing in traffic with a road full of other hot and bothered citizens. I took the opportunity to stretch my legs and start snapping photos of the soldiers (for your eventual benefit), whilst chewing on some unripe almonds picked from a nearby tree. We crawled up to the checkpoint.

"Camera. Where's your camera?" the soldier asked. Oops. I went completely white and started looking guilty, having hidden in it in a bag of vegetables at the back of the bus. The women rallied round and spoke to the soliders , in English- of course some solidiers wouldn't dream of learning the native language of the place they are occupying-

"No, no camera here, it was just a phone!" The women, amazingly, are playing along incredibly good-naturedly, bantering with the solidiers, who seem bemused but are having none of it. Of course they had been clocking me taking pictures from one of their nearby omnipresent watch towers. Idiot. After several more minutes of denial (and I very nearly caved and handed over the damned thing, which would have waved goodbye to some 200 odd photos) someone fishes out a camera which fortunately contains nothing incriminating. The soldier seems satisfied and after checking our IDs lets us through. I have learnt my lesson and sit chewing my lip whilst the women whoop, cheer, and start clapping along to the Arabic pop blasting out through the radio whilst we wind our way towards home.

So then, I now know never to take photos of soldiers or checkpoints. So what are the checkpoints for? The Israeli government cite 'security measures'. SO, why are there checkpoints within the West Bank itself, for the Palestinians living their own land? Security actually has little to do with it, and is more about restricting freedom of movement, daily humiliation, subjugation and the destruction of the Palestinians' ability to have any semblance of economic independence (checkpoints disrupt the lives of those travelling to work and study, or trying to transport goods.) And judging from what I have seen thusfar, a daily reminder on behalf of Israel of their occupation of the West Bank using brute military might.

I recently read a book called Check Point Watch which does a far better job of explaing the strategy, and impacts of the checkpoints. Have a look for it if you have time.

I haven't even started on what I'm actually doing here have I? More on that very soon. xx